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Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil “Column Dial” LM Ref. 590005 (circa 1970s)
Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil “Column Dial” LM Ref. 590005 (circa 1970s)
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WHY WE CURATED IT:
The importance of Must de Cartier Tanks is often overlooked… instrumental in saving Cartier 50 years ago when the boom of post-WWII France faded, and with it, demand for luxury. At the same time, cheap mass-produced quartz watches were flooding in from Asia. Cartier’s solution? Make accessible versions of the (otherwise full-gold) iconic Tank Louis but in gold-plated 925 silver, with Swiss quartz calibres. This runaway success kept Cartier’s watch business afloat, unlike much of the European industry. This version is in the LM size, with a “Column Dial”, lauded as one of the most unique Tank dial variations. Vintage aficionados love the on-brand Roman numerals, arranged not around the dial but in two minimalist, symmetrical columns, each flanked by 4 raised golden rails. A very modernist graphical riff on Cartier classicism. Can you think of any other watch that does markers with this verticality and rhythm? We can’t.
CONDITION:
9/10, with light hairlines and some slight wearing of the plating on the ends of the brancards. Hands, original unreplaced crystal, and original “Swiss-only” dial are clean. Caseback engravings/hallmarks deep and crisp, with service sticker remaining. Original strap used but still plenty usable. Original Cartier buckle has light hairlines. Movement in excellent health and quartz-accurate.
DIMENSIONS:
23.5mm width excl. crown
30.5mm length incl. lugs
5.9mm thickness
17mm lug width
Visual dial width ~16.5mm
Wrist in photos is 15.8cm
CRYSTAL:
Mineral glass
CASE:
925 silver, 20 micron gold-plating
WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, per vintage watches
STRAP:
Original Cartier strap and buckle (16mm)
CALIBRE:
Cartier Cal. 81, 2-hander quartz
COMES WITH:
Watch, Cartier strap, Cartier buckle, Cartier pouch
TERMS OF SALE:
Please see our stories Highlight entitled “Terms” on our Instagram profile. Thanks!
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