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Cartier “Must de Cartier” Tank Vermeil FULL SET Tuxedo Dial Manual LM (circa 1980s)
Cartier “Must de Cartier” Tank Vermeil FULL SET Tuxedo Dial Manual LM (circa 1980s)
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WHY WE CURATED IT:
The importance of the 70s Tank Must is often overlooked. Instrumental in saving Cartier 50 years ago when the economic boom of post-WWII France faded, and with it, demand for luxury. Cartier’s solution? Make accessible versions of the (otherwise full-gold) iconic Tank LC but in gold-plated sterling silver, and fitting them with Swiss quartz calibres. This took the market by storm and kept Cartier’s watch business afloat, unlike much of the European industry. This is a very uncommon and sought-after “tuxedo dial” in the LM size, with a manual-winding movement to boot. Super versatile and classy no matter what you wear with it. With the original Cartier strap and buckle (plus aftermarket ones), and a full set with box and papers. For many, THE vintage Tank Must LM to have, and they’d be right!
CONDITION:
9/10, with scant signs of use. Deep, crisp engravings/hallmarks. Clean crystal/cabochon/hands. Lacquered dial has the subtlest spidering; a lot less than common for this vintage. Spidering is appreciated as characterful patina, indicating original vs replaced dials. Included Cartier buckle has minor hairlines, and original Cartier strap is worn. New aftermarket strap and buckle included. Movement in excellent health with to-spec power reserve, strong amplitude, low beat error. Accurate to ±5 secs/day averaged from 6 timegrapher positions.
DIMENSIONS:
23.5mm width excl. crown
31mm length incl. lugs
6.6mm thick
17mm lug width
Dial width ~16.5mm
Wrist in photos 15.8cm in circumference
CRYSTAL:
Mineral glass
CASE:
Silver, 20 micron gold-plating
WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, per vintage watches
STRAP:
New aftermarket black leather and buckle (16mm). Includes original Cartier black lizard and buckle (14mm).
CALIBRE:
Cal. 780-1 (ETA 2512 base), manual-winding 2-hander
COMES WITH:
Watch, aftermarket strap and buckle, original Cartier strap and buckle, boxes, documentation, certificate
TERMS OF SALE:
Please see our stories Highlight entitled “Terms” on our Instagram profile. Thanks!
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