Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil “Wood Grain” Lacquer SM Manual (circa 1970s)

WHY WE CURATED IT:
The importance of Must de Cartier Tanks is often overlooked. They were instrumental in saving Cartier 50 years ago when the economic boom of post-WWII France faded, and with it, demand for luxury. Further, cheap mass-produced quartz watches were flooding in from Asia. Cartier’s solution? Make accessible versions of the (otherwise full-gold) iconic Tank LC but in gold-plated silver (so still fully precious metal), and fitting them with Swiss quartz calibres. This took the market by storm and kept Cartier’s watch business afloat, unlike much of their European counterparts. This historical piece is in the small size, with a seldom-seen “wood grain” lacquer dial, golden sword hands, and no indices to showcase the dial fully. Over 90% were quartz, but this one’s manual. Classy, classic and trés chic!

CONDITION:
8/10, with light hairlines and charming aging. Gold plating shows slight rainbow oxidation which we can remove upon request but we would recommend leaving it as patina unique to this piece. All depends on your experience level with vintage appreciation. Crystal and cabochon are clean. Hands have small age spots. “Swiss only” lacquer dial has spidering, indicating unreplaced originality. Caseback engravings/hallmarks deep and crisp. Used original Cartier strap and buckle in very good condition. Movement in fair health with to-spec power reserve, accuracy ±10 secs/day averaged from 6 timegrapher positions.

DIMENSIONS:
20.5mm width excl. crown
28mm length incl. lugs
6.6mm thickness
15mm lug width
Visual dial width ~15mm
Wrist in photos is 15.8cm

CRYSTAL:
Mineral glass

CASE:
925 silver, 20 micron gold-plating

WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, per vintage watches

STRAP:
Original Cartier black lizard (used), original Cartier buckle (14mm)

CALIBRE:
Cartier Cal. 78-1 (ETA 2512), 2-hand manual-winding

COMES WITH:
Watch, original Cartier strap and buckle

TERMS OF SALE:
Please see our stories Highlight entitled “Terms” on our Instagram profile. Thanks!