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Cartier Vendôme Vermeil Black Gilt Semi-Roman Dial Ref. 590003 (circa early 1980s)
Cartier Vendôme Vermeil Black Gilt Semi-Roman Dial Ref. 590003 (circa early 1980s)
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WHY WE CURATED IT:
Most notable Cartiers, even in their archives, are four-sided. Tanks, Santos, Pantheres, Tonneaus, even Tortues (plus each of their myriad variations) are all either overtly or subtly four-sided. There were obscure early pieces that were circular, but these were all but forgotten until the 70s when Cartier revived them as Vendômes, named after the new Parisian boutique at Place Vendôme (second store to complement its historical flagship at 13 Rue de la Paix). Vendômes are slim and sleek, versus the similarly round Colisees which are more sculptural with thick bezels. Vendômes are some of the most understated Cartiers and here we have a seldom-seen version. Most Vendômes have white/champagne dials and full Roman numerals. Black dials, when they show up, tend to have no indices, or full silver Romans. This one is black with gilt details, large Romans only in the cardinal positions, and diamond-shaped markers elsewhere. Discreet as originally intended, but with rich details to enchant each time you glance at your wrist.
CONDITION:
9.5/10 with barely any signs of wear. Crystal, dial and cabochon are clean, with microscopic honest age spots on the hands and barely visible spidering. Spidering is appreciated as characterful patina, indicating original vs replaced dials. Caseback engravings deep and clear. Original Cartier strap is used but in perfectly usable condition with plenty of life remaining. Original deployant is excellent. Movement in excellent health, and quartz-accurate.
DIMENSIONS:
30mm width excl. crown
36.6mm length incl. lugs
5.1mm thick
16mm lug width with custom T-bar cutouts
Visual dial width ~25.5mm
Wrist in photos is 15.8cm
CRYSTAL:
Sapphire
CASE:
925 sterling silver, 20 micron gold-plating
WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, as per vintage watches
STRAP:
Used original Cartier strap with Cartier deployant
CALIBRE:
Cartier Cal. 90, 2-hander quartz
COMES WITH:
Watch, strap and deployant
TERMS OF SALE:
Please see our stories Highlight entitled “Terms” on our Instagram profile. Thanks!
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