Longines “Octagon Blue Breguet” Ref. 5097 (Circa 1977)

WHY WE CURATED IT:
One of two main case variants from these ever-popular Longines “Octagons”. This one’s similar to another we had a while ago (perfectly symmetrical octagon), but with a different dial and handset. This very-hard-to-come-by dial is in a beautiful deep blue, with a radiating cross-hatch lattice texture, topped with gilt Breguet numerals and leaf hands. Strap is narrow at 14mm on fixed wire lugs; a mid-century style uncommon for the 70s and very elegant. Overall a very slim, dressy presentation. Remarkably bold and eye-catching on the wrist and feels like something from the 30s/40s. So evocative!

CONDITION:
8.5/10 with visible signs of use. Dial has very subtle spidering which is hard to see on the textured surface. Spidering is appreciated as characterful patina, indicating original vs replaced dials. Crystal has a few fine marks but nothing conspicuous or annoying. Case serial intact on the caseback. Strap has some wear, but with plenty of use remaining. Movement in excellent condition with to-spec power reserve, very strong amplitude, low beat error and accurate to ±5 secs/day averaged from 6 timegrapher positions.

DIMENSIONS:
30mm width excl. crown
~34.5mm length incl. wire lugs
6.4mm thickness
Takes 14mm open-ended straps
Visual dial width ~24.5mm
Wrist in photos is 15.8cm in circumference

CRYSTAL:
Mineral glass

CASE:
Stainless steel, gold-plated

WATER RESISTANCE:
Assumed none, per vintage watches

STRAP:
Aftermarket textured blue Saffiano from Bambi, aftermarket pin buckle (14mm)

CALIBRE:
Longines L846.4, 3-hander small seconds manual-winding

COMES WITH:
Watch, aftermarket strap and pin buckle

TERMS OF SALE:
Please see our stories Highlight entitled “Terms” on our Instagram profile. Thanks!